From the Minneapolis Star Tribune - January 15, 2006
by Randy Miranda

Talking on the Wilde side

A school teacher and a carpenter have created a welcoming environment where their namesake playwright, with his eccentricities and humorous asides, would have been quite comfortable.

On evolving East Hennepin Avenue in Minneapolis, Tom DeGree and Dean Schlaak can usually be seen fretting over details in their niche of Bohemia.

After traveling to other cities and realizing there could be fun places to hang out in other than bars, the partners set out to create a comfortable gathering place in Northeast Minneapolis. They did much of the work themselves and their Wilde Roast Café opened March 1, 2004.

When it came time to pick a name, DeGree and Schlaak knew they wanted a gay icon identified by culture. For them, Oscar Wilde (who once stated, "Cultivated leisure is the aim of man") was the perfect choice. "We knew he would give us the look that we were after," DeGree said. "It's Victorian without being fussy."

DeGree and Schlaak continually tweak the menu and the atmosphere. This month, they've decided to turn off their wireless Internet service in the evenings and on the weekends. "We want to encourage conversation, visiting, getting to know one another," DeGree said. "We want Wilde Roast to be affirming and relaxed, a place where you could come out to your parents." On any given night, the vibe at the award-winning cafe can be quite eclectic. Let's check in at 6:30 on three nights in a recent week:

Sunday

There's definitely a buzz in the café tonight. The mood is shifting, from conversation, wine (they serve wine and beer) and dinner to an entertainment mode, with a concert featuring singers Andy Moore and Eric Himan. A steadily lengthening line queues up for coffee and lattés, croissant brownie bread pudding and eggnog brulée. Tables and chairs in the front of the room have been moved into an informal concert arrangement, most filled with men of various ages. Himan's soulful, sometimes rebellious tunes seem to strike a chord with the crowd.

Wednesday

A light snow is dancing outside the expansive picture windows. Two men in their 20s sit in overstuffed chairs, laptops bathing their faces with an ethereal glow. A nuzzling couple shares the Chesterfield couch, oblivious to the strangers around them. A fireplace warms the room and the ambience. Occasionally, drink calls and laughter interrupt the steady buzz of conversation and background jazz.

Thursday

A portrait of the namesake playwright looks out over the high-top tables. With candles glowing and lights dim for the evening, a couple at a cozy corner table share crab cakes and artichoke dip while two women nearby devour a novel and the New York Times. Several folks are in line for their favorite libation before heading to the adjoining Query Booksellers, where a local author is discussing his new novel.